Running in tandem with the third edition of Frieze Seoul, Gagosian gallery unveiled an exhibition for American artist Derrick Adams at the headquarters of K-beauty giant Amorepacific.
The occasion is a first for the American artist in South Korea, who has painted a multichromatic collection of wig mannequin heads that explores themes of style and beauty.
The exhibition is also a first for the global art power player in the market.
“The most important thing about the exhibition is the relationship of viewership of people walking by,” Adams said during a press preview on Monday at Amorepacific’s AMPA Cabinet, which is virtually a large glass cube on the ground lobby floor of the David Chipperfield-designed building.
Amorepacific’s Seoul headquarters.
Courtesy
The artist thus titled the show “The Strip,” as the exhibition space reminded him of open-plan shopping malls. He hopes his work will be exposed to many “non-art people” passing by.
Comprising of seven nearly life-size beauty store display windows in acrylic and spray paint on wood panels, the series recreate New York City’s building facades in molded, textured reliefs.
The collection is inspired by the stores Adams has photographed near his Brooklyn studio, a kind of memory archive that he revisits to transform into new experiences for the viewer.
“The brick surface is to imply that there is a wall and that you’re looking in past the wall into the interior of a shop,” said the artist, who is known for his exploration of structuralism. The spray-painted hearts mimic New York’s graffiti-covered walls but are also a nod to late American fashion designer Patrick Kelly, whom the artist quotes as a big inspiration.
Derrick Adams
Courtesy
“What’s so interesting about this body of work is that it complements the relationship of the beauty care industry within primarily the Black community and the ownership of Korean patrons, or Korean shop owners, within this neighborhood, and also the influence of contemporary Black culture that exists in media and in fashion,” he said.
Each painting is named after 1990s pop numbers by female R&B groups including Destiny’s Child and Xscape, whose fashion and makeup styling remain influential.
“I think there is a certain level of freedom in transforming yourself by adorning yourself,” he said. “Individuals who identify as women often feel empowered in using decor as a means to project aspects of themselves that they want the world to see.”
Adams added that he was very inspired by the youth culture in South Korea, from the fashion to music, which may emerge as themes in his future work.
In the meantime, Gagosian said the gallery will continue to return to South Korea for Frieze Seoul.
“What we see in Seoul is the firm establishment of a fair that will continue for a long time,” said Nick Simunovic, senior director of the gallery’s Asian division, adding how other local events like the Gwangju Biennale help cultivate a favorable environment and garner more interest from near and far.
Jiyoung Lee, Gagosian’s Seoul director since 2023, said that a permanent space in the city is not yet in the books but hopes to hold more pop-up exhibitions.
“The Strip” continues through Oct. 12.
