To get to the ‘Venice of Africa’, I choose to take the less scenic route through Apollo, one of the six communities that make up wider Makoko. My tricycle driver, who has made this trip countless times, enquires about my intentions and asks if I have a contact waiting for me—if he can spot me as a visitor, so can everyone else. It’s not my appearance that matters though—anyone visiting Makoko needs a guide, for both access and safety.
Luckily, I have one saved in my phone—Augustine Omogbemi, a stocky man in his early 30s and Makoko’s ‘King of the Boys’. Born and raised by the waterside, Augustine serves as a youth leader within the informal community system. Part of his role, besides guiding visitors like me, is doing his best to ensure peace in the village, prioritizing the people’s interests above his own.
“Recently, an artist came to the waterside to shoot a music video, and before he left, he donated to the community,” he tells me. “I did my best to make sure everyone got a little something, no matter how small.”
