FLORENCE — Since the pandemic, Pitti Uomo has had its ups and downs, with industry insiders questioning its direction and need for reinvention. This winter edition has proven that even while staying true to its legacy, the fair has managed to find its back into the menswear conversation, including the few peacocks mingling in the main courtyard warming attendees’ hearts.
Similarly, fashion brands at the fair doubled down on classicism, revisiting heritage menswear codes with a global perspective, adding references and craftmanship from a multitude of cultures and subcultures. The blend of sartorial excellence, military uniforms, hunting attire, workwear and vintage Americana resulted in a cohesive and exciting new message to kick off the season.
Here are the leading trends for fall 2025 from the fairgrounds.
The Casual Suit
Isnurh pants, jacket and T-shirt; Cos shoes.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
There’s nothing new when it comes to utility as a leading menswear code, but when mixed with the legacy of the leisure suit of the ‘60s in the vein of a dressier attitude, the result becomes practical and chic. A great example is this mixed media corduroy and wool utility suit from Scandinavian brand Isnurh.
Double-breasted Armor
Luigi Bianchi jacket and pants; Eton shirt and tie.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
After many years of looking down at ‘80s corporate America, the double-breasted suit is back in the sartorial spotlight. With softer shoulders and pleated carrot pants, the look feels more current and perfect for Gen Z, as in this Luigi Bianchi flannel number.
Military Chic
Brunello Cucinelli shirt, tie, bomber jacket, pants, sweater and shoes; Moscot sunglasses.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
The celebration of masculinity and need for protection was heightened by designers reintroducing signature military pieces but blending them with an elegant edge. Brunello Cucinelli brought American bomber jackets into his sophisticated and exclusive universe.
Burgundies and Plums
Caruso jacket and sweater; Eton scarf.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
After spring’s pastel colored palette, the need for rich hues sparked the reintroduction of burgundy as a go-to color for the slightly more adventurous. In this Caruso shirt jacket and matching turtleneck it mingles with plum, another popular shade at Pitti Uomo.
Floral Explosion
Rue de Tokyo jacket.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
Streetwear and designer ready-to-wear served as a clear influence for this directional botanical trend. Florals appeared as embroideries and prints on workman jackets and corduroy pants adding an artisanal touch to the look, as seen in this Rue de Tokyo piece.
The Maxi Coat
MKDT Studio coat; NN.07 T-shirt and pants; Cos shoes;
Moscot sunglasses.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
Few trends were as ubiquitous as the raglan-sleeved maxi coat with an A-line silhouette. Mostly presented in darker colors or plaids, this ‘80s comeback kid was the talk of the town. This head-turning MKDT Studio example exudes drama.
Grandpa’s Cardigan
NN.07 cardigan, T-shirt and pants; Cos shoes.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
Knits, knits and more knits flooded the fair’s pavilions, but the defining style was the grandpa’s cardigan, slightly oversize and embellished with geometric, Fair Isle or graphic designs. This retro NN.07 style is sure to be winning over fans of the TikTok coastal grandfather’s frenzy.
Heritage British Plaids
Mackintosh coat.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
Checks, plaids, tartans, herringbones and the multitude of tweeds were the season’s comfort zone fabrics. This British textile invasion not only happened inside the booths but dominated the streetstyle, too. When talking about British heritage, Mackintosh is the brand to feature with this gun check belted coat ideal for a weekend in the countryside or a day in the city.
