The Blumarine in-house design team has surely proven its resilience over the past 12 months during which it saw its studio’s revolving door spin with the exit of Nicola Brognano, the one-season tenure of Walter Chiapponi earlier this year and the arrival of new creative director David Koma. Now it’s gearing up to adapt to Koma’s viewpoint, which will be revealed come next pre-collections season.
In the meantime, the team continued to create collections through all these changes, mainly relying on Blumarine’s romantic ethos and its core codes. The spring 2025 collection was no exception to that approach, but showed a more directional way to express it compared to previous efforts.
The team channeled a carefree spirit and early 2000s vibes with a breezy and sensual lineup, whose inception traced back to water. The element informed the dripping effect on flower motifs, appearing as a liquified print on a slipdress or as 3D applications with beaded fringes on a mini frock; the transparent sequins and crystal fringes swaying from dresses to mimic water drops, and shiny lightweight fabrics as well as crinkled textures, as seen in leather pants with crisscross details and separates cut from soft duchesse featuring metal threads.
Even the brand’s signature leopard pattern was treated with a lighter hand for a sun-soaked, faded effect on see-through ruffled tops and printed denim, which could have easily fitted into Shakira’s wardrobe at the time she followed her love “whenever, wherever.”
Simple poplin sets, billowing pleated dresses with ruffles and swimwear — worked in solid colors ranging from white to pastels — added to the collection. As a final touch, the design team indulged in stylistic whims, including fancy fringed accessories dotted with little roses and rhinestones that are likely to resonate only with those headed to summer festivals.
For more London spring 2025 reviews, click here.
