As I meander through the pink-clad throng, posters in display windows invite me to try pink soup-themed cocktails, coffees, cakes, donuts, as well as (of course) the plat du jour—šaltibarščiai. I don’t pass a single establishment which hasn’t embraced the festival, whether through pink flags, ribbons, streamers and bunting, an ambitiously creative pink soup-themed menu, or all of the above.
The mood is infectious. I can’t help but grin as I watch the hordes, numbering up to 40,000 across the day, spilling through the streets. Schoolchildren flit around their parents, flicking pink-streaked hair between bursts of laughter; while groups of teens race up hills showing off their long, agile strides and coordinated outfits reminiscent of 90s bands. At a small shaded table outside one café, an elderly woman slowly pushes a spoon into the hood of a pram—and as I get closer, I see a delighted baby kicking out his bare feet and babbling as a slow trickle of pink soup dribbles down his chin. Šaltibarščiai for all.
The timing of the festival also helps to attract this diverse crowd. Taking place on an early summer weekend during term time, families have not yet left the city for vacation. It’s also helped by the balmy weather, central location, free entry, and—let’s face it—the universal appeal of eating.