“Fashion is a caprice. It’s something that gives you the feel-good factor, which we sometimes forget about,” Ian Griffiths said at the end of a walk-through of Max Mara’s pre-fall 2025 collection.
Committed to remind women “the joy of fashion,” the designer conjured versatile and refined pieces that can be easily dressed up or down to meet their everyday needs.
An avid art fan, Griffiths was inspired by a John Singer Sargent exhibition he saw at the Tate Britain in London, as he aimed to reimagine the Edwardian period’s elegance as well as the sense of luxury and self-indulgence portrayed in the artist’s paintings for current times.
“What I love about the work of Sergeant is how each of his sitters is a complete character. Previously, court painters made everyone look the same, but he really brought out each individual character and he styled them almost like a stylist would today,” said Griffiths.
The opening look was a clear reference to Sargent’s 1883 “Madame X” portrait – not surprisingly pinned on his mood board – but with the sensual sweetheart neckline here making an appearance on a practical jumpsuit. The same shape informed silk bodices printed with a floral pattern, which added to other feminine motifs such as bows sketched on shirts or rendered in a 3D version on the front of a cotton crepe suit.
A series of emerald green garments, including trapeze dresses, striped tops and fluid separates splashed with a flower motif, livened up the mostly ivory and black lineup. Yet it was in these solid options that the Max Mara expertise in fit and proportions was exalted.
Cue sober poplin shirts and trench coats elevated with a peplum detail on the back, adding a twist to their familiar silhouettes. Ditto for a billowing black blouse juxtaposed with shorts crafted from a technical mesh jersey. The fabrication best expressed Griffiths’ desire to combine lightness and structure with a touch of modernity. No wonder her used it to offer also a short, pristine version of the brand’s iconic Teddy coat, shedding a new light on the style’s timeless shape.
